Foodways provide a lot of insight into individual and group identity because food and the practices surrounding its preparation, presentation, and consumption comprise a vivid symbolic language that communicates and constructs identity.
Two of the Passover foods that are most special to me are Apple Cake and Knishes. For various reasons, I can no longer actually eat either of these, but they remain special to me because of the ways they are prepared, the stories surrounding them, and my own role in preparing and serving them.
Apple Cake
My cousin Alyssa and I are the designated makers and masters of the Apple Cake, and we have been for as long as I can remember. In fact, as the two girl cousins at the seder every year, neither I nor our mothers and aunts can remember a time that we weren't in the kitchen, helping with the seders, from beginning to end. Whether we were entrusted with the apple cake because it's a simple recipe and easily prepared (unlike the sponge cakes, the eggs do not have to be separated, for example), or whether we simply took over because we enjoyed making it (and eating it!) so much, I have no idea. All I know is that whichever aunt is hosting the seder lets the apple cake baking wait for our arrival (if possible). My Aunt Karen brought this recipe to the family, but we have definitely taken it over. Here are some pictures:
I'm beating eggs while Alyssa "gradually adds a scant cup of oil." The meaning of "gradually" and "scant" are always funny to us, and always require explanation to non-apple cakers! Tim is sifting the matzoh cake meal before measuring it. I will then stir (not beat!) it into the batter.
Knishes
I don't even know where to start with knishes! Apparently, there are other kinds than the ones we make, but I've never seen or heard of them. Ours are essentially mashed potatoes with a ground meat filling. There' s a lot more to it than that, but I haven't ever really prepared the filling. I've fed a hard boiled egg or two through the grinder, sure, and I've watched it being made every year, but I've not yet be in the driver's seat, so to speak. Except for Aunt Karen, none of my aunts nor my mother grew up making knishes. They all learned to make them from my Grandma Alta (great-granmother), and my Bubbie Rissel. At my mother's first seder, the women of the family taught her the first verse of one of the Hebrew songs while they made knishes, so that she could surprise my father by knowing it later that night. And he was very surprised, to be sure! Until a few years ago, the "one" verse of Echod, Ani Oh-dey-ah? (Who knows one? I know one!) was hers, until we all taught her Schnei-eem, the "two" verse.
But going back to knishes... We usually either make an assembly line, or a circle around the work space. This year, because the Aunt Diana's kitchen island is so wide, we made an assembly line.
I'd love to hear about your family's holiday food traditions, or any questions you have about ours!